Chadra: Lebanese and Labs

Chadra Mezza & Grill had me at hello. It happened to be “Pooches on the Patio”(every Wednesday from 4-7 pm) when my husband and I finally tried it out. I’m a sucker for anything canine-related and was therefore completely taken in. Any restaurant that has a special happy hour each week for dogs and their owners gets an “A” in my book. Fortunately for my integrity as a reviewer, the restaurant itself did not at all disappoint, and my bias towards the pups was secondary to the fantastic food and atmosphere. I can safely say that even if there had been nary a pooch in sight, I would be equally enthusiastic about Chadra.

Located near the corner of 8th and Park Place near the hospital district, Chadra embodies the warmth of its revitalized neighborhood. It feels very homey, and though its simple décor does reflect a Middle Eastern theme, the laidback atmosphere is more “Cheers” than exotic. Service was fairly slow, but we soon observed that most of the wait staff were visiting with the patrons, sometimes even sitting down for a chat. Once we grew accustomed to the pace, it was endearing rather than annoying. Towards the end of our dinner, a cheery manager named Megan came to see how we were faring. We easily fell into conversation with her about the history of the restaurant and its owner/chef, Nehme, who arrived from Lebanon nine years ago and worked his way up from washing dishes to launch Chadra, which is named after his home village. Megan has promised to remember us next time we come in, and I have full confidence that she will.

Kafta, Shawarma, and Babaganouj galore, Chadra serves up traditional Lebanese fare at its best. We opted for the Chadra Mezza platter (small portions of ten different appetizers) in order to try out as many different dishes as possible. Nothing was disappointing and several items stood head and shoulders above other Lebanese that I’ve tried in the area. The hummus was incredibly garlic-y and delicious, and the falafel was perfectly cooked and seasoned. Surprisingly, the Foul Moudamas was the favorite dish of the night. Made of fava beans in garlic sauce, it was not much to look at next to its enticing plate-mates, but the taste was out of this world. My husband and I were not-so-subtly fork jockeying for every last bean. For those with less than adventurous palates, Chadra also offers Italian inspired choices on the menu. From pizza to lasagna to eggplant parmigiana, the Italian choices looked fantastic, though I don’t understand how anyone could pass up the wonderful Lebanese.

In short, Chadra is everything a neighborhood restaurant should be, and I highly recommend trying it out. The price is right, the food is delicious, and I think it’s safe to say that at least one person will know your name (and probably your lab's name, too). Lunch - $, Dinner - $$

The Vault: Letting You in on the Secret

It was my full intention to review Reata Restaurant, one of the icons of downtown Ft. Worth dining, in this first entry. I thought that there would be no better way to begin FtWorthFoodie than by paying homage to a downtown institution, but that was before some friends and I discovered The Vault and V Lounge on Saturday night.

Located on the ground floor of The Tower behind Cantina Laredo, The Vault opened very discreetly on Monday, May 26th, and apparently most of the city is still unaware of its existence. When we walked in, the austere atmosphere and soft piano music was highlighted by mostly empty tables, a stark contrast to the bustle of Sundance Square just around the corner. I must say that the serenity was almost unnerving (that coupled with the fact that we were very underdressed almost made us turn back to the more traditional Sundance scene), but curiosity prevailed and we asked the pleasant hostess if we could sit at the bar.

“Vault” is an accurate name for this gem. The elegant simplicity of the main dining room creates an ambiance completely locked away from frenetic downtown - it feels like a secret. The Vault is self-consciously not the average Ft. Worth restaurant, but this doesn’t translate into an aloof staff or unnecessary pretention. Quite the contrary, in fact. We felt warmly welcomed and instantly comfortable, especially when we descended into the cozy V Lounge located under the dining room.

V Lounge echoes the minimalism of the The Vault, but feels significantly warmer with leather chairs and couches abounding. The bar is a long, inviting crescent of dark mahogany, easily seating 20 people. We settled into a couple of comfy couches and were offered complimentary glasses of red or white wine (the liquor license had yet to be approved.)

Now to the menu. What perhaps is most notable regarding The Vault menu is that it is scheduled to change daily. In a way, this makes it hard to review, yet I am confident after perusing the Saturday offerings that patrons will consistently be faced with delightful and difficult choices to make no matter what is listed. Everything is made in-house and the kitchen doesn’t even have a freezer! Locally-sourced ingredients and daily deliveries of seafood will ensure a fresh, high-quality menu each evening. The entree selections for Saturday included Hawaiian Moon Fish, Seared Duck Breast, Moroccan Lamb Loin, Bone-in new York Strip, and Filet.

We opted to order from the tapas selections and then enjoy dessert. The Tenderloin Brochettes with Italian Salsa Verde were absolutely fabulous - perfectly seasoned rare skewers of meat placed on a bed of garlicy green chile sauce. The Harissa Marinated Chicken with Charmoula came in a very close second. The flavors were wonderful and playful combinations of Mediterranean, Indian, and even Southwestern (garlic green chile sits quite comfortably on a Texas palate), but the fare is not over-complicated or showy and the high-quality meat shines through. There’s no intention to hide here – the food is simple, forthright, and confident.

Dessert was very good, though not as spectacularly impressive as the tapas fare. The Chocolate Bread Pudding with Caramel Sauce was fudgy and rich and beautifully plated. We’d all have preferred the traditional bread pudding flavor and look forward to seeing that on the menu in the future. The Trio Crème Brulee (Chocolate, Banana, and Vanilla) was delicious as well. The texture was a bit too solid for my taste, but the flavors were excellent. I tend to be a crème brulee purist, so I was very doubtful of the banana, but it was subtle and creamy.

Perhaps the highlight of our evening at V Lounge was meeting Chef Gabriel Ochoa. Quiet and unassuming, Ochoa’s demeanor belies his impressive resume. He can lay claim to experience at The Worthington, Hotel Zaza, and Stephen Pyle’s, and has studied in Barcelona and Vienna. Ochoa’s philosophy of freshness can be summed up in his reply to me upon complimenting the freezer-free kitchen: “Freezers are for pastry chefs.”

The official grand opening is scheduled sometime in late June. It’s sure to be a beautiful and tasteful affair, though selfishly I wish I could delay it and lock The Vault away to have a private escape with friends on Saturday nights. Once the secret is out, Ft. Worth is sure to keep the small dining room and lounge fully booked, so try it out now before things really get going. The food is some of the best I’ve had in the Metroplex and the atmosphere is refreshingly simple yet warm. I am thrilled to kick off FtWorthFoodie with an enthusiastic recommendation for The Vault! $$$